Mera peak climbing

Tour itinerary: Kathmandu → Khumbupasanglahmu → Kathmandu

Overview-

Mera peak is a beautiful peak in the Sagarmatha zone, Khumbu region of Nepal. It is known to be the highest trekking peak in Nepal with a height of 6476m. the Mera peak actually contains 3 peaks, Mera North (6476m), Mera Central (6461m), and Mera South (6065m). the most climbed and explored among these 3 is Mera North (6476m). Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, the early pioneers of Mount Everest are also said to be the first ones to explore Mera peak. The first ascent of Mera Central was made on May 20, 1953, by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing. Since then, the Mera peak has been gaining much popularity. These days, People do Mera peak climbing before and after Mount Everest climbing.  The region is highly under the protection of Makalu Barun National Park and Sagarmatha National Park. You will definitely see tons of rare flora and fauna during your entire journey. Flora like Rhododendrons, Juniper, fir, Himalayan birch, etc, and faunas like snow leopards, snowcock, bearded vultures, etc are found here. During the journey, you get to witness many Sherpa villages, suspension bridges, monasteries, etc. However, the stunning views of some mountains like Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the top of Mera peak are its main highlight. 

Best season to climb Mera peak-

As peak climbing is one of the most challenging tasks to do. Season or weather is very important to consider. The best season for climbing a Mera peak is spring (March-May), and autumn (September-November). During these seasons, it's not that the climbing is going to be easy but it comes with a lot fewer challenges. The winter season is very harsh with very high temperatures. Monsoon season receives a lot of rainfall which might make the trails slippery and muddy. During the spring and autumn seasons, the temperature is very favorable. The average temperature during the autumn season is around 12C in the daytime and around 6-8C at night time. In the spring season, the average temperature is 10C in the daytime and around -4C at night time. The average during the summer season is around 15C in the daytime. The winter season is extremely cold at a higher altitude with an average temperature of around -30C. 

Food/drinks and accommodation-

Trek to Mera peak is not an easy thing. If you are planning to climb Mera peak, you need to remember there are some very difficult trails and passes where no teahouses are available. It has to be both a camping and a teahouse trek. At the lower altitude, there are enough teahouses available. You can spend your night in clean, warm, and cozy rooms. You get enough varieties of food in teahouses. You have all the facilities of internet, electricity, hot water, communication, etc. They have small rooms with 2 small beds. So the room has to be shared along with toilets and bathrooms. But, you can expect the same facility once you cross a place named Khare. At higher altitudes, the only option available is camping. You need to camp and spend your nights inside a tent. You might not have many options for food besides some bread, eggs, and noodles. You need to spend many days tent camping in cold weather. Your travel company will hire a cook for you who can make you some food while camping. don’t forget to choose a trustworthy company for your trek. 

Difficulties of Mera peak-

Honestly, Mera peak climbing falls under a slightly challenging and technical climb. Climbing over 6000m is something very serious. If you are not physically and mentally fit for this trek you cannot make it to the top. While trekking or climbing Mera peak you need to consider every single thing, no matter how small it is. Your strength, focus, confidence, skills, everything should be perfect. Spending several nights inside a tent in the cold weather, not being able to communicate with anyone, no signal, or internet makes this journey very much difficult. As you go higher, the weather is not very predictable and can change drastically. You need to be strong enough to face any kind of changes in the weather. You certainly need some mountaineering skills like using ropes, ice axes, harnesses, etc. The other major problem is the altitude. Mera peak is known to be the highest trekking peak in Nepal with an altitude of 6476m. there is a huge risk of mountain sickness during this trek. You need very good acclimatization before climbing the actual peak. Besides, you need to be very much hydrated, eat healthy food, and avoid alcohol and smoking during the trek. For muscles and strength, you can always practice running, climbing, and some exercises to be fit for the journey. 

Permits for Mera peak climbing- 

1) Sagarmatha National Park permit 

   -   Non-SAARC countries- 3000 NRS (excluding VAT)

   -  SAARC countries- 1500NRS (excluding VAT)

2) Makalu Barun National Park Permit 

      Non-SAARC countries- 3000 NRS (excluding VAT)

      SAARC countries- 1500NRS (excluding VAT)

3) Mera peak climbing permit 

-  Spring (March-May)- 250 $ per person

-  Autumn (September-November)- 125$ per person 

-  Winter (December-February)- 70$ per person

-  Summer (June-August)- 70$ per person

4) TIMS- 2000 NRS 

There are altogether 4 permits you need before climbing the peak. All the permits are available on Nepal Tourism Board. 

Guides and porters-

Yes, guides and porters are two important things on this trek. When you are climbing a peak, you definitely need a guide who is well-experienced, skilled, confident, professional, and licensed of course. Without help and guidance, you cannot possibly climb a whole peak. A guide will help you, instruct you, create a path, and knows about the risks too. They might charge around 35-40$ per day. On the other hand, you need many equipment and stuff for camping and climbing. You cannot carry all of them with you and walk for several hours. Normally people are not used to these things. But porters, are very much experienced and hardworking. They will carry all your belongings and help you to walk freely. They might charge you around 25-30$ per day. 

Other facilities-

Getting phone signals or the internet at such a higher altitude is quite impossible. Nevertheless, you will get good signal or phone coverage at lower altitudes, especially up to Khare. At lower altitudes, they have solar panels for electricity, internet connection, communication facilities, etc. They mostly use satellite phones. However, for all these facilities you might have to pay extra money. For transportation facilities, you can take a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, which is the starting point of this trek. If you want to take a bus, then a bus from Kathmandu to Jiri is available. But, again you have to hike from Jiri to Lukla which can be very tiring for some people. Once you reach Lukla, hiking is the only option to reach Khare further. 

Route to Mera Peak 

Day 1- Kathmandu- Lukla-Chhuthang, 30 minutes flight, 4-5 hours walk

Day 2- Chhuthang- Tuli Kharka, 5-6 hours walk

Day 3- Tuli Kharka- Kothe, 6-7 hours walk 

Day 4- Kothe- Thangnak, 4-5 hours walk

Day 5- Thangnak-Khare, 5-6 hours walk

Day 6- Khare- Mera base camp, 3-4 hours walk

Day 7- Mera base camp- High camp, 3-4 hours walk

Day 8- High camp- Mera peak, back to Khare, 9-10 hours walk

Day 9- Khare- Kothe,5-6 hours walk

Day 10- Kothe-Tuli Kharka, 5-6 hours walk

Day 11- Tuli Kharka- Lukla, 6-7 hours walk

Day 12- Lukla-Kathmandu, 30 minutes.